AP spoke with dermatologists and a Philadelphia salon owner for guidance on whether expensive shampoos and conditioners are worth the jump in price—especially when advertising suggests premium bottles are elixirs for common hair problems.
The dermatology advice emphasized that the main differentiator is not the label or packaging, but how a shampoo fits a person’s scalp needs, hair type, and overall routine. Dr. Crystal Aguh, a dermatologist and director of the Ethnic Skin Program at Johns Hopkins School of Medicine, said people should evaluate ingredients and their own hair and scalp concerns, and then consider their entire hair care workflow rather than treating shampoo as a standalone cure-all.
Aguh said she generally categorizes people into two hair types: damage-prone and damage-resistant. She described damage-prone characteristics as including very curly hair, chemically treated hair, and hair styled with hot tools. For people in that group, Aguh said to avoid shampoos that have sodium lauryl sulfate as the main ingredient because it removes a lot of sebum, a natural oil that coats and protects hair.
Aguh also tied shampoo use to how often people wash based on hair texture and treatment history. For curly or dyed hair, she recommended washing less frequently to avoid removing too much sebum—saying people with tightly curled or coily hair should wash only once a week and people with wavy dyed hair might find it best to wash every two to three days. She said damage-resistant hair that is oily and straight can be washed every day.
When it comes to whether premium products are necessary, Aguh said the focus should be on the process, not on the brand. She told AP that it’s “not the products, it’s the process” that affects hair health the most, including how often hair is washed and how it is dyed or treated with heat. Aguh also said mixing higher-end and mass-market products is fine and that people should not feel compelled to buy an entire line of expensive products.
Dr. Joe Tung, a dermatologist at the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center, said consumers should think of shampoo as skincare for the scalp rather than just a cosmetic product. Tung said hair itself is biologically inactive once it grows out, while the scalp contains an ecosystem involving stem cells, immune cells, oil glands, and nerve endings—so when that ecosystem is balanced, the scalp feels comfortable and hair grows optimally, and when it is disrupted, people may experience itching, flaking, excess oil, or hair loss.
Tung said shoppers should consider what their scalp needs and choose conditioner based on hair texture and the level of damage. He said dandruff and itchiness benefit from shampoos that address inflammation and microbial imbalance, while dry or chemically treated hair could benefit from a gentle cleanser with a rich conditioner. He also told AP that expensive shampoos and conditioners are sometimes worth the price, but that effectiveness depends on active ingredients rather than branding.
Tung said an antifungal ingredient works because of its molecular activity, not because it comes in a “luxury bottle or from a prestigious brand.” He added that expensive shampoos typically rely on more refined conditioning agents and soothing ingredients that may make frequent hair washing more comfortable, while he warned that some luxury products include fragrances or botanical extracts that can irritate sensitive skin—making simpler formulas potentially better tolerated for some people.
Beyond price and ingredients, the AP report also highlighted sustainability and sourcing as possible reasons for higher costs. In Philadelphia, MOKO Organic Beauty Studio stocks organic shampoos and conditioners that cost from $24 to $45, according to owner Monique Mason, who said the salon’s mission is to provide products that are good for scalps and the planet.
Mason told AP that ingredients are a major factor influencing price and that organic products typically avoid inexpensive sulfates, synthetic fragrances, and parabens used across the personal care industry. She said she also researches how the brands she sells manufacture their products to ensure sustainability claims can be verified, including learning whether brands are family-owned and how they farm and source ingredients.
A continuing theme across the dermatologists’ guidance was that consumers can often achieve the desired scalp and hair outcomes without paying premium prices—provided the shampoo addresses the right ingredient needs and the routine matches the person’s hair and scalp situation. The experts also said people should see a doctor for lingering dandruff problems when self-care does not resolve the issue.