Set in the shadow of classical statuary, Demna offered a new vision for Gucci during Milan Fashion Week on Friday, framing the presentation as a reset rather than a continuation of established house codes. The designer began with a skin-tight white minidress and clean muscle T-shirts meant to spotlight a chiseled silhouette, then moved the looks through tighter, body-conscious lines before transitioning to slimmer trousers and tops for men and leggings and long clingy dresses for women.
Demna titled the show “Primavera,” Italian for “spring,” using the name to suggest a new season while also drawing inspiration from Sandro Botticelli’s masterpiece displayed in Florence’s Uffizi. The collection’s floral references appeared most clearly in a Gucci gown that leaned into the springtime theme.
In describing his approach, Demna immediately distanced himself from “any intellectual parsing” of the show and said he sought to keep the message out of high-fashion theory. In notes, he said the collection “is built around a sense of pragmatism,” adding that he wanted his Gucci “to become lighter, softer, more refined, more elaborate, more emotional, even senseless sometimes,” and that he does not want it to be “intellectual” but instead wants it “to be a feeling.”
The presentation leaned into what the article described as an embrace of archetypes, with classic Gucci staples appearing in shorter supply. It also included reference points that the reporting characterized as contrasts of posh Milanese “sciura” women in pretty dresses topped with eco-fur stoles against “marranza” suburban males shown with long hair on top, buzz-cut sides and slouching pants.
Demna also nodded to earlier eras of the brand and to contemporary creative influences in the room. The show included a couple of references associated with Alessandro Michele, with Valentino’s creative director seated front row and with garments that the report described as tributes, including a floral gown and a daysuit with a pussybow and furry slip-on shoes.
The last moments made the point about the designer’s focus on bodily immediacy and visual impact. Kate Moss closed the show in a glittering evening gown that plunged in the back to reveal a double-G-branded thong, as she moved sensually down the runway.
Alongside the designs, Gucci signaled a retail tactic aligned with the same “pragmatism” theme. The report said Gucci announced that some of the collection would be available for immediate sale in a see-now, buy-now format, and it also included Demna’s statement that his “vision of Gucci is about the coexistence of heritage and fashion” and that “Gucci only exists when both are in sync,” writing that the show “introduces a universe of people, archetypes, consumers and dress codes that will shape my design language moving forward.”
The front row included Paris Hilton and Nicky Hilton, Donatella Versace, and Demi Moore, who the report said arrived in a fitted leather ensemble carrying her dog, Pilaf. The Associated Press report was updated to correct the spelling of Balenciaga.